The fat in milk naturally takes the shape of tiny spheres, or globules, because of tiny lipid molecules that adhere to fats at one end and repel water at the other. This French standard, which involves simply melting butter until it browns, is making a comeback as a simple sauce for vegetables and fish. Each butter may have been exposed to any number of problems in shipping, storage, stock rotation or packaging, all of which can affect the delicate taste. However, the dairy plans to put pull dates on its new packages in the future. The fat in butter is much more concentrated than it is in milk, averaging approximately 80 percent of the butter's weight. Butter fat testing using Gerber method is one of the many quality assurance test procedures carried out in milk. Sweet cream butter is made from butter that is fresh and sweet tasting, rather than aged and tart. In 2015, the shift started – th… When it comes to flavor, our panel discovered that how a butter is stored makes almost as much difference as how much flavor-giving butterfat it contains. The Land O' Lakes cake had a much lighter texture and the flavor faded quickly. That extra 2 percent is usually made up of fat, which helps the butter become the delectable, spreadable texture you know and love. After much discussion with baking and science experts, we concluded that the high amount of fat in the Straus cake kept it from developing as tender a texture. A 2013 meta-study published in the "European Journal of Nutrition" reviewed 16 earlier studies, with similar results. Lucerne surprised us with its mild dairy notes and fresh taste, which some described as almost floral. Grass-fed milk has a richer taste and is creamier, thus why Kerrygold butter has … What Are the Benefits of Ingesting Coconut Oil? In the United States, fat-free skimmed milk or low-fat partially skimmed milk, with much of that fat removed, have taken their place in health-conscious diets. "Fat really absorbs moisture molecules quite well. -- The Bottom Line: Cremerie Classique was the tasters' favorite. Butter is almost entirely fat, as it is made by separating out the fat and then whipping it to encourage it to coalesce into a mass. Surprisingly, a high butterfat content wasn't the key to the best-tasting butter. We bought all the butters at the same time and immediately put them into self-sealing plastic bags. To see just how different the spread would be, I baked two batches of our Self-Rising Crunchy Sugar Cookies (one made with all butter, one with all shortening), for another shortening vs. butter in baking comparison. 1. We ate them plain and spread them on bread. Berkeley Farms. Somebody walking by with strong perfume on or even a cart with three crabs in it can affect the flavor," says Marc Halperin, culinary director at San Francisco's Center for Culinary Development. One butter, Challenge, tasted so salty that we were sure it had been mislabeled as sweet butter. This mild, sweet butter, made in Hayward, tastes fresh with a slight tang. -- 4. Butters … The only marking on samples were numbers, and each butter was tested twice. The biggest difference in Kerrygold butter starts with the milk. Butterfat composition and types of butter. This rich butter is made in Ireland and has a pale yellow color, because it is made from grass-fed cow’s milk, free of antibiotics and hormones, with 82 percent butterfat. The distinctions between different kinds of milk and cream labels can be confusing. The Straus sauce looked like coarse pepper had been sprinkled over it. (Tie) Lucerne (Safeway) and Land O' Lakes. Because the percentage of milk solids differs in each butter, and those solids become dark brown particles in the sauce, each sample looked different. The packaging on some sticks of unsalted butter boasts their contents have an 85% butterfat content. Clarified butter is butter with the water and milk proteins removed, leaving a composition of 99-100% pure butterfat. Butterfat ranged from the legal minimum of 80 percent to nearly 86 percent. It was so rich, in fact, that it masked all the other flavors. It has nearly 85 percent butterfat vs. approximately 80 percent for regular (American) butter. Gerber Butterfat Content Determination Method. The answer is butterfat. The texture is slightly waxy. A more natural diet, produce a better milk, and then better butter. Full-fat milk is usually homogenized at the dairy, a process that makes the fat globules so small they'll remain evenly dispersed throughout the milk and not separate, as they otherwise would. Eventually, the milk solids in the butter sink to the bottom and begin to brown. The Cremerie Classique cake had a pronounced sweetness and rose higher than Land O' Lakes but not as high as Straus, which rose the highest just out of the oven but ended up with the densest texture. Near perfection. The remaining traces of milk are rinsed out of the butterfat in cold water and the mass is compressed into a solid lump or brick of butter. Butterfat contains about 3% trans fat, which is slightly less than 0.5 grams per US tablespoon. Sweet Cream Butter. The Cremerie Classique sauce had what looked like fine pepper sprinkled throughout and a light nutty butter flavor. One camp prefers a high-moisture butter to get the crispness and lift that comes when water turns to steam and explodes the fat globules that surround it. Other butters tasted included Clover Stornetta, Challenge, Horizon, Straus Family Creamery, Organic Valley, Tillamook, Luvpak Danish, Challenge European, Plugra and Beurre President. While American butter contains just 80% butterfat, European butter has been churned for a longer period of time, giving it 82% butterfat. The fat content of whole milk can vary among individual cows, among breeds or even from month to month as the animal's fodder changes. That is probably because high-fat butter softens and melts faster. Cremerie Classique is made by Raven Creamery in Portland, OR, a small dairy employing just 11 people. Although butterfat is typically 82% in Europe, in the US most butter is actually 80% (US dictated minimum). Plenty of luxe types of butter exist on the market, but time-honored supermarket staples like Land O'Lakes can totally get the job done, especially in a utilitarian baking context. " The Cremerie Classique cake was tender, but not quite as light as the Land O' Lakes cake. One butter, Challenge, tasted so salty that we were sure it had been mislabeled as sweet butter. A Chronicle survey of prices in November and December showed vast differences between months and between stores. Here are the results: . Horizon was $3.99 in November and $4.99 in December at Andronico's; at Safeway, Tillamook was $2.89 in November and $4.19 in December. Butter (German: "die Butter") is made from butterfat in the cream of cows, sheep, and goats (and sometimes other mammals). Whipping cream can have between 30 and 35%, and heavy cream has at least 36%. The company started making the premium butter a couple of years ago at the urging of some French bakers. The people who run the Safeway dairy labs in Walnut Creek agreed to send our set of unlabeled butter samples to an independent lab they regularly contract with. The remainder consists of … Straus Family Creamery, a favorite of Chez Panisse's Alice Waters, had no pull date. This high-fat layer, known as cream, can then be churned to bring the fat globules together and form butter. And that’s what you get when you purchase unsalted butter or sweet cream butter, which is simply salted butter. These butters are not cultured, so expect a more neutral flavor. The Difference Between Salted and Unsalted Butter The only real difference between salted and unsalted butter is literally the salt: All butter is made from milkfat in cream and contains at least 80 percent milkfat, 18 percent water, and 2 percent solids (mainly protein and salt), explains Jen Giambroni, a dairy expert with Real California Milk. Many researchers are now revisiting the earlier assumptions about dairy fat and its relationship to health concerns, in search of a better and more nuanced understanding of the mechanisms involved. Clear butterfat rises to the top of melted butter and may be poured off, leaving the albuminous curd and water that favour the growth of organisms promoting rancidity; thus, anhydrous butterfat does not become rancid as readily as butter and can be stored unrefrigerated for several months. Salted butter typically contains 1-2% salt by weight, or about a 1/4 teaspoon of salt per stick. Certainly, Plugra fresh from the Pennsylvania factory might have beaten our favorites in the taste test, but we wanted to compare the sort of butter available to shoppers off the grocer's shelf. The theory here is that the fat coats the tongue, canceling out the sharpness of the other ingredients in the sauce. We used the average of the two scores. But, bottom line: It didn't do well in our tasting. The Chronicle spent several weeks exploring 15 widely available brands of unsalted butter. Others said it was simply yummy. Many of the butters received low scores because they had off-flavors which we surmised they had picked up during transport or on the supermarket shelf. Butter is a commodity, and wholesale prices are set largely through trading at the Chicago Mercantile Exchange. We used the butterfat and moisture levels, which are listed in an accompanying chart, to determine which butters to test in cooking. Irish butter brands usually follow the European standard of producing butter with an 82% butterfat content, though there are variations. Milk fat and butter fat are therefore the same thing, varying only in their concentration. It is available at markets like Andronico's and Whole Foods. The best source of butterfat in ice cream for high quality flavour and convenience is fresh sweet cream from fresh sweet milk. This keeps them from pooling together like the oil in your vinaigrette, but they're still lighter than the watery whey and will tend to rise to the top of the milk. Cremerie Classique. Consumers can't even count on sell-by dates, since those are not required by law and and can be arbitrarily set by the manufacturer. -- 1. Butterfat definition is - the natural fat of milk and chief constituent of butter consisting essentially of a mixture of glycerides (such as those derived from butyric, capric, caproic, and caprylic acids). What’s the big deal? If you're both a health-conscious diner and a cookbook enthusiast, you may have noticed that the terminology in your cookbooks changes over time. -- The Bottom Line: It comes down to personal preference. Other sources include butter or anhydrous milkfat. The Cremerie Classique cake seemed like a good compromise, with a lighter texture. Perhaps it’s that extra bit along with this butter’s perfect balance of cream and salt. If you allow unpasteurized milk to stand, it separates into cream (mostly butterfat) and skim milk (mostly water). It is a rush of tangy, salty … Market pressures also affect prices, industry executives say. The milk that is used to produce this butter is from cows that eat grass. In making the pastry, there was little noticeable difference in the three brands of butter, although it appeared that the Straus butter blended into the dough quicker. Président. Before that, butter is 16-17% water and 1-2% milk proteins (also known as milk solids). Because of butter’s low melting point, the dough tends to spread during baking before the structure sets. We whisked them into beurre blanc and baked them into pound cake. (And is the reason why European butter is so expensive—it's often 85 percent fat.) Fat in Butter The fat in butter is much more concentrated than it is in milk, averaging approximately 80 percent of the butter's weight. Butter is a dairy product made from milk or cream. It’s created when cream is vigorously churned, which causes its solids (butterfat) and liquids (buttermilk) to separate, and ultimately results in the firm product we all know and love. One of the advantages of multiple component pricing is: It provides clear pricing signals to dairy farmers in regards to the economic value of milk components. American butter is usually around 80 percent fat, although the exact amount varies from brand to brand. The butter we all know and love is of the sweet cream variety. Looking to discover the difference cultured butter can make? In the Land O' Lakes cake, the steam created by the extra moisture and the lighter butterfat made for a lighter cake. Butterfat. For complete results, see the accompanying chart. 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Vivien Straus attributes that to the vagaries of her small dairy. Others prefer the rich mouthfeel and flavor of high-fat butter, especially when it comes to croissants and puff pastry. Twelve years after the initial survey, participants with a high intake of dairy fat had the lowest rate of central obesity, while those with the lowest consumption of dairy fat had the highest rates. When Put to the Test, Here's How Butter Brands Stack Up, In 1999, California, the second largest producer of butter in the nation, produced 343 million pounds of butter. But the Land O' Lakes crust seemed a good choice for sturdier uses like pot pies. Butterfat ranged from the legal minimum of 80 percent to nearly 86 percent. The best news may be that it is a relative bargain. -- The Bottom Line: The flavor and aroma of Straus made it a clear winner. "It always has the best results." Maybe that extra two percent really pushed this butter from being good (like it’s honorable mention cousin) to great. Because Straus butter is made from cows that graze and isn't ultra- pasteurized or cultured, it is particularly volatile. Its butterfat content is 82%, which … If you think all butters are pretty much the same, you would be wrong. All of the samples we tried had a variety of dates, many extending into 2001. Distribution is limited to a few Western states. In 2013, protein was almost double the price of butterfat, $3.30 per pound to $1.66 per pound. © Copyright 2020 Hearst Communications, Inc. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen; Harold McGee. That extra 2% of butterfat … Vermont Cultured Salted Butter. Lower fat content means that the butter contains more water, but that's not necessarily a bad thing, especially for baking. Irish butter's superiority in one creamy secret. Modern cookbooks turn that around, referring to butter by its milk fat content. To determine the difference in moisture content, butterfat, salt and milk solids, we turned to the scientists. The remainder consists of water and a small quantity of milk solids. The Straus cake was rich in butter flavor and had a course, rustic texture. This test was so interesting that we ended up repeating it four times. Scandinavian Journal of Primary Health Care: High Dairy Fat Intake Related to Less Central Obesity -- A Male Cohort Study With 12 Years' Follow-up, European Journal of Nutrition: The Relationship Between High-Fat Diary Consumption and Obesity, Cardiovascular and Metabolic Disease. In order for a churned dairy product to be considered butter, it must contain at least 80 percent butterfat. Fred Decker is a trained chef and certified food-safety trainer. It is a simpler modification of the Babcock method with special butyrometers for various dairy products. The Cremerie Classique sauce had a slightly sharper flavor from the wine and vinegar reduction. . Although butter prices change regularly, we watched the price over the course of several weeks and it never rose above $4 a pound. A 2012 study published in the "Scandinavian Journal of Primary Health Care" reviewed the overall health of a group of middle-aged rural Swedes. I live in Canada, where a breadth of butterfat options are available, but butters with butterfat ratios above 80 tend to be quite pricey. The Land O' Lakes sauce was more uniform in color, with a few flecks and a neutral flavor. Very wrong. The primary difference between grass-fed and regular butter is whether the cows used to produce the butter were allowed to graze on grass or were fed … Even Land O' Lakes, the only national brand, and house brands like Safeway's Lucerne, crept over $4. Shortages in cream supplies and higher demand can drive prices up, as was the case in 1998 and early 1999. Most breeds average 3.5 percent to 4 percent butter fat. The Highest Percentage of Fat in the Milk of an Animal. This butter is not discreet. Our cultured butter also has less moisture than sweet cream butter, which also boasts great results in cooking and baking. Supermarkets like Safeway, which sells Lucerne butter, will offer discounts on their house brand to beat out competitors like Challenge or Land O' Lakes. -- 2. -- The Bottom Line: Cremerie Classique had the best balance of rich butter flavor and performance. It's light-colored, mild and slightly grassy tasting. Decker wrote for the Saint John, New Brunswick Telegraph-Journal, and has been published in Canada's Hospitality and Foodservice magazine. The high-fat Straus butter made a sauce that was thicker, deeper in color and decidedly buttery. It's like a sponge, and the longer it sits around in a grocery store the more flavors it picks up. In January 2000, multiple component pricing became the milk pricing system for about 90 percent of federal order milk production. At the same time, the water content in the butter is evaporating, and what’s left is pure butterfat. In older cookbooks, you might find cream, milk and low-fat milk described in terms of their content of butter fat. Along with 80% butterfat, the average butter sold in the United States contains about 16-18% water and 2-4% additional components, such as milk solids and sometimes salt. Butter tends to be cheaper in November than in December, when more people bake. The strong flavor appealed to some for eating at the table but others thought it would be too rich for baking. The Land O' Lakes sauce, a pale lemon yellow, had the best balance, allowing the flavors of shallot, vinegar and wine to blend nicely into a whole. European style butter contains more butterfat than the above two varieties. This French import is slightly oily and has a light tang and rustic look. Plugra, in particular, suffered from this. 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